HOW & WHAT TIME TO PRUNE MAPLE TREES

Are you searching for “How & What Time To Prune Maple Trees” while looking for information about how to take care of your trees? This article is designed to help you understand more about pruning, when to do it, and how to get the job done. If you’d rather have us take of the trees in your landscape Phoenix Trim-A-Tree offers Tree Pruning Services. To prune a tree is to remove certain branches and/or stems in order to benefit the entire tree.

WHAT IS THE REASON FOR PRUNING A TREE?

It’s health! Removing dead, diseased, and damaged branches will help in preventing insect and decayed organisms from getting into the tree. In order to increase the amount of air and sunlight so that there will be less problems with diseases put a dense canopy on the tree. In order to eliminate having weak wood and to provide it with more food and water remove suckers and water sprouts. In order to prevent damage that is caused by branches rubbing against one another take out all branches that are crossing one another. As a tree grows older they tend to have weak and/or narrow crotches that split apart, by removing these crotches you will keep the wood from breaking and/or tearing apart.

Take off the co-dominant leaders. The co-dominant leaders will be the two branches that are growing close to the trees top, they grow straight up, becoming equally dominant. If you cut one of them off it will allow the other one to be the dominant branch, preventing branches from splitting apart or from tearing the wood, which is generally a problem under heavy winds.

TREE PRUNING SAFETY

Using the proper pruning procedures will create and maintain a stronger tree structure, also prevents the safety hazards of low growing branches, and also the growths that form and are subject to damage from storms.

HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN TO PRUNE A TREE?

Branches that are dead, diseased, or damaged needs to be remove as soon as they are noticed. Besides that, pruning is best done in late winter or early spring, right before trees begin to opening up their buds. Many trees, like maple and dogwood, bleeds saps during this time of each year. The bleeding doesn’t cause them any harm. Although pruning can be performed at any time, it is best to avoid do so in extremely hot or cold weather. Tree use up energy during weather that is extremely hot or cold, so if pruning is performed after its leaves has opened make certain that you give them enough time to develop their leaves fully, plus a little extra time for recuperating their energy.

HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT PRUNING A TREE?

To prune your tree corrected you need the right tools and some knowledge about where and how to cut. While safety should always be your first priority the next is knowing where to cut on your tree. Before you start cutting and affecting the future shape, health, and safety of your tree make sure to read this in full. Trees pruned correctly add value to your landscape, while over pruning or removing the wrong areas can ruin the look and structural integrity of your tree. The number one rule before ever making a cut is determining why you are pruning and what part is to be pruned. You need to start out having a plan. Next, you need to figure out what kind of equipment you are going to be using. You will generally be using hand pruners, a pruning saw, and loppers. Hand pruners: There is two different kinds of these, they are the bypass and the anvil. The bypass pruners are like scissors, whereas, there are two sharp blades involved, giving a clean cut.

For the anvil pruners, there is only one sharp blade that cuts against another blade having a flat surface. This crushes the underside tissue of the stem. The hand pruners that are recommended to get a clean cut would be the bypass pruners. Both of these type of pruners is intended to be able to cut wood that is ½ to ¾ an inch in diameter.

• LOPPERS – Loppers come in two different types, the bypass and the anvil. There blades are larger, with longer handles, designed for cutting wood that is ¾ to 1 ½ inches in diameter. A bypass lopper is the one recommended.
• PRUNING SAWS – The older bow saws are now being replaced by the newer tri-edge saws, which folds. These can quickly cut wood as big as 3 inches in diameter.

HOW TO GO ABOUT CUTTING

Pruning itself wounds a tree. But when it is done correctly it can actually help a tree. Of course, if it is incorrectly done the tree can be harmed by it. A couple of examples of incorrect pruning are: flush cuts and when stubs are left behind. Trees are not able to heal their own wounds. If a branch gets cut off, it stays cut off. However, trees are able to seal their wounds, if pruned correctly, what is referred to as a callus can be caused to grow sort of like a doughnut, it starts at the edge and grows inward until it covers the wound (or cut).

There is a boundary of a chemical inside of the tree that forms around the wound and separates it off. This limits potential decay that could occur. Leaving stubs and flush cuts will cause wounds not to be callus over and they cannot be sheltered by being separated by itself. These areas of the tree will merely begin rotting away. In order to prune a branch from a tree’s trunk you need to know where the bark ridge and branch collar is and be able to locate them, these two things are very important. A branch collar is merely where it swells around the base of a branch (Can be viewed in the figure).

You will find the branch bark ridge as a slightly raised area, that is dark, with rough bark which forms at the place where the branch and the truck’s tissue meet. Which are the areas of a tree that contains chemicals to initiate a calluses growth and the separation from the rest of the tree in order to protect its wound that was create from the cut. It is unhealthy to cut into these areas of a tree and needs to be avoided. There will be three cuts necessary if removing a big heavy branch from a tree to keep from tearing the branches collar.

Finally, do not go and ruin a pruning job by putting a coating on the cut using paint, and do not use wood dressing either. Years of research has proven that this does not prevent decay and does nothing to help the wound to close up. The most this will do is promote rot, as it makes the wood stay wet for a longer period of time after a rain shower. Also, you should never take a lot off of the tree at any one time.

MAINTAINING THE NATURAL TREES FORM – Sometimes erratic and vigorous branches will grow, changing the trees growth habits in other branches, resulting in the tree being misshaped. Removing these branches will help to maintain the trees natural form.
SHOULD YOU STIMULATE OR RESTRICT A TREES GROWTH – The sparse areas of a tree can have its growth stimulated by pruning it. If there is an area of the tree that is undesired, its growth can be restricted with pruning.

WINTER TIME TREE TRIMMING & PRUNING ARIZONA

Winter trim tree trimming & pruning in Arizona keeps your trees to attractive and healthy. Winter time is the best time of the year to pay more attention to your shrubs and trees. The leaves should all be gone by now and most plants made out of wood become dormant, making this a perfect time to give them up trim up. This post will help you find how, what and why you should prune.

3 STEP TREE TRIMMING PROCESS

To correctly remove a larger branch of limb from a tree there is a 3 step process. This process was developed by Dr. Alex Shigo, who is a well known plant pathologist and pioneer in what is today’s modern tree care methods. His process that is widely used today focuses on removing branch tissue while ensuring no damage to the bark tissue or stem. Today his methods are used by virtually all commercial tree trimming companies. Correctly trimmed trees and plants produce more fruit and flowers. The right pruning actually helps shrubs and trees steer clear of diseases and pests so you won’t need to care for them as much. Here is a guide on how-to prune any flowering fruit tree or shrub.

STEP 1 – FIRST CUT

The first cut is simply a notch on the underside of the branch near the branch collar. It’s important to not cut all the way through and just create a notch in the underside of the tree. It allows the branch to fall away without the bark pulling and tearing as it falls.

STEP 2 – SECOND CUT

The second cut is the cut that removes the branch from the tree. It should be done about 2 or 3 inches from the first cut. After this cut the branch should fall leaving a short sub. The purpose of removing the branch and temporarily leaving a stub is so the stub can be removed safely without the weight of the branch.

STEP 3 – THIRD CUT

The third and final cut to trim the tree is done just outside the upper branch bark ridge and angles down away from your branch collar. If done correctly this 3 cut method the wounded area will produce a callus that encloses over the trimmed branch area.

TREE TRIMMING NOTES

It’s important to follow through and remove the stub left after your second cut. Leaving a branch stub will lead to decay and or delay a tree from closing the wound made by trimming. It’s important to not cut into the branch collar or bark ridge when removing a branch or limb. If the branch collar is wounded during the trimming it opens your tree up to diseases.

INVIGORATE YOUR TREE IN THE WINTER TIME WITH PRUNING

During the dormant season – pruning in the winter invigorates shrubs and trees because it gives plants extra energy reserves due to the extra root which will ensure new growth on the pruned branches. Pruning in the dormant-season is good for yourself as well because you see the branches clearly without leaves in the way. It also gives you a reason to get out of the house during the mild cold days. Here is a quick list of trees and shrubs you can safely prune from winter until spring. Also, a list of tree you shouldn’t prune in the winter season.

MAKE SURE AND CUT BELOW DISEASED OR DAMAGED AREAS AND DO NOT PRUNE WET PLANTS(WATER SPREADS DISEASES). TO BE EXTRA CAUTIOUS MAKE SURE AND RINSE TOOLS WITH 10% BLEACH WATER SOLUTION.

WHAT IS TREE PRUNING? – TREE PRUNING DEFINITION

TREE PRUNING DEFINITION – Pruning is a horticultural practice comprising of the selective removal of certain parts of a tree, such as roots, branches or buds.

REASONS TO PRUNE

Because each cut can change the overall growth of the tree, no branch should be removed without grounds to be cut. Typical reasons for pruning are for the removal of dead branches, to enhance form, and to reduce risk of falling branches. Trees can also be pruned to let in more light and air penetration to the tree’s crown or to the landscape below the tree. In some cases, mature trees are pruned as preventive or corrective steps, as regular thinning does not actually improve the health of a tree.

WHEN TO PRUNE

Most regular pruning to remove disease-ridden, weak or dead limbs can be completed at any time of the year with little impact on the tree. In general, wound closure and growth are increased if pruning takes place prior to the spring growth flush. A couple of tree diseases, like oak wilt, can develop when pruning wounds and can provide access to pathogens. Vulnerable trees should not be pruned in active transmission spells.

PRUNING TECHNIQUES

Certain types of pruning may be necessary to manage an adult tree in a healthy, safe, and appealing condition.

CLEANING – Cleaning is removing dead, dying, diseased-ridden, weakly joined, and low-strength branches from the crown of the tree.

THINNING – Thinning is selective branch removal to improve the tree structure and to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown. Correct thinning opens up the foliage of a tree, lessens the weight on more substantial limbs, and helps keep the tree’s natural shape.

RAISING – Raising removes lower branches from a tree to allow clearance for buildings, vehicles, and people.

REDUCTION – Reduction reduces the size of a tree, usually for utility line clearance. Reducing a tree’s height or spread is generally done by pruning back the tree leaders, and branch ends to secondary branches that are sufficiently large enough to take over the terminal roles. In comparison to topping, reduction helps keep the form and structural durability of the tree.

PRUNING YOUNG TREES

Proper pruning is vital in developing a tree with a robust structure and appealing form. Trees that receive proper pruning measures while they are still young will need fewer corrective pruning as they grow older. A sturdy structure of primary branches should be created while the tree is still young. These limbs are called scaffold branches and are a mature tree’s groundwork. Properly trained young trees will start to develop a strong structure that needs less corrective pruning as they grow older. For a lot of young trees, try to keep a single dominant leader growing upwards. Don’t prune back the tip of this leader or let secondary branches exceed the central leader.

PRUNING PALMS

A lot of pruning of palms is done to remove dying or dead fronds, flowers and/or fruiting clusters, especially those that may be a possible risk to the public, like coconuts. Pruning is typically conducted at least twice a year. Coconuts can be pruned as frequently as every 3 to 4 months to minimize the risk of damage or injury from falling coconuts. It is best for the palm if green fronds remain unharmed. Palms that are over pruned may have a slower growth rate and can attract pests. Climbing spikes should not be used to climb palms for pruning because they harm the palms trunk.

PLEASE DON’T TOP TREES!

Topping is possibly the most harmful tree pruning technique known. Yet, regardless of more than 25 years of literature detailing its adverse effects, topping continues to be a common practice. Topping is the cutting of tree branches into stubs or to sideway branches that are not substantial enough to take on the terminal role.

ALTERNATIVES TO TOPPING

Every now and then a tree must be reduced in height or spread, like for clearing utility lines. There are suggested techniques for doing so. Small branches should be cut back to their original point. If larger limbs are required to be shortened, it should be pruned back to a sideways branch that is large enough to take on the terminal role. This technique of branch reduction helps to preserve the natural form of the tree. However, if significant cuts are needed, the tree may not be able to close over and let its wounds compartmentalize. Occasionally, the most natural solution is to totally remove the tree and replace it with a species that is more suitable for the site.