WHY IS MY CACTUS DROOPING | CAUSES

When it comes to caring for cacti, there are four factors that impact their survival: water, light, pests, and temperature. Too much or too little of water, too dim or too much bright light, pests (mealybugs) or fluctuating temperatures (and usually a combination of all four) will make your cactus strained and begins to behave oddly. Cacti are hardy succulent plants that need very little water or maintenance to thrive, but they do still require some type of care. Sagging or Drooping branches suggests that your cactus plant is stressed in sort of way. Inadequate sunlight or water, mealybugs or types of freeze damage can put a strain on your cactus and can lead to a sagging or drooping appearance.

WATERING IMPROPERLY

Understanding how much water to give a cactus plant can be complicated. A dehydrated cactus will usually turn a shade of purple and can become soft. Later it can show a wrinkled appearance and the branches can droop. Over-watered cacti can also become soft and droop and they typically can develop root rot. Planting cactus in potting soil guarantees your cactus has the right type of drainage and watering more often can help to solve the dehydration issues. Repotting root-bound plants into a larger pot will also help. If your cactus has been over-watered, let the soil dry out. Cactus plants only need water when the top two inches of soil have dried out and requires only enough water to allow some drainage through holes the base of the pot. When the water begins to drain from the holes, the cactus has adequate moisture.

INADEQUATE LIGHT

Cactus plants like a lot of heat and bright light. If your cactus is starting to droop but has the proper amount of water and there are no pests visible, it may not be getting enough sunlight. If the drooping occurs during winter months, and when days are not as long, your cactus plant might need an artificial addition to the natural light it gets. During the spring, summer and fall months, when cacti require much more warmth and sunlight, cacti in pots will do well outdoors.

MEALYBUGS/ WOODLICE

Mealybugs or woodlice are white with a cotton-like appearance. These pests draw the juice from your cactus plant, leaving tiny blemishes and start to spread disease. Substantial feeding by mealybugs usually causes a loss of liveliness leading to drooping branches. There is good news, mealybugs on singular plantings can be easily killed by hand. Another alternative is rinsing the cactus with a mixture of liquid dish soap and water or an insecticidal soap and then allowing the cactus to stabilize for a day before rinsing off the soap from the cactus with water. Direct sunlight should be avoided during this time to prevent from sun burning the plant. This may take a couple of attempts since repeated applications are required to remove any hatched mealy bugs. The removal of flourishing growth, that mealy bugs love, may also help decrease their numbers.

FREEZE DAMAGE

A lot of cactus plants are indigenous to most frost-free environments, if the temperature drops below freezing for even a couple hours, freeze damage may happen. Typically, this will show as blackening of the parts of the cactus that were exposed. In a couple of weeks, the black areas dry out and the cactus branches may start to droop. If the cold temperatures only happened for a short period, then the damage is likely superficial and your cactus will likely grow out of it, but this could take a couple of years. Water, adequate sunlight and warmth will help. Cacti also are required to avoid colder drafts. If they are grown outdoors, they will thrive in a location that gets radiant heat during nighttime, like from a wall or patio. When temperatures drop, cactus grown in a garden are covered with a sheet for added warmth and cactus in pots should be relocated indoors.

CACTUS AND SUCCULENT CARE

Cactus and succulent care is a specialized area but it is something anyone can master and enjoy. Read on to learn more.

Cacti and succulents are very common houseplant nowadays. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes from the petite to the grandiose. Cacti and succulents fall into the same category because they both have characteristics meaning they can grow in dryer environments.

Cactus and Succulents are low maintenance, water-smart plants that reserve water in their leaves and stems, creating a full or succulent aspect. They are usually found in hot, dry climates like the desert and have acclimated to tolerate long periods without water. There are a lot of varieties of succulents and cacti that grow from all over the world. For the best growing results each plant has distinct needs, but there are common rules for succulent and cactus care.

WATER – If the container your cactus is in has drainage holes, water completely at least once a week during its active growth period. If your container doesn’t have drainage holes, water moderately to moisten the soil, make sure water doesn’t pool up at the bottom of the container which can cause your cactus to rot. Allow the soil to dry between waterings.

LIGHT – Place your cactus in a south-facing window that is brightly lit indoors or in an area with bright, indirect sunlight outdoors. Some cactus can tolerate full sun but must be steadily adapted to hinder sunburn. If the light source is insufficient, etiolation will happen, and your cactus will start to become leggy as it extends outward towards a light source.

SOIL – Succulents and cacti grow best in soil that is fast draining and well aerated. Perlite or pumice mixed with soil works well for this, or you can pick up a cactus/ succulent mix.

CACTUS & SUCCULENT GROWING TIPS

LITHOP CARE (LIVING ROCK) – Take particular care not to overwater lithops, as they will rot. Water lithops during fall (when you see flower buds start to appear) and spring (after leaf shedding has happened) thoroughly (until water runs through your containers drainage holes) and let the soil dry between waterings. Abstain from watering at all during winter and summer months, except for very sparse sprinklings at least once a month. Keep your lithop in a brightly lit, south-facing window. For more information visit lithops.info

NUTRITION – Fertilize throughout the growing season with a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength for each watering.

COLORS – Typically greener succulents are more accepting of low light environments. If your space doesn’t have a plentiful light source, try and avoid succulents that have blue, purple, pink and white tones.

PROPAGATING – Cactus has a lot of methods for reproducing and can propagate from cuttings, leaf cuttings and producing seeds.

ARTIFICIAL LIGHTING – Succulents do their best in natural light, but if this not attainable (during winter months or your geographical location), you can still give them a light source via artificial grow lights. There are a lot of options for energy-efficient artificial lighting readily available.

CACTUS RE-POTTING

If your cacti or succulent is in a container, it’s best to re-pot is in the spring. To re-pot your cacti:

• Firstly water the cactus and allow it to drain before removing it carefully from the pot, using a folded piece of paper to protect your hands against its spikes.
• Clear away the old soil from the roots using a thin stick, like a chopstick, so that you don’t damage the roots.
• Put a layer of potting mix in the new pot, which should be slightly bigger in diameter, and sit the cactus on it.
• Fill the rest of the pot with the potting mix and firm it down.
• Don’t water for a couple of days to prevent the rotting of damaged roots.

PALM TREE GROWTH

There’s a lot of residents in Phoenix Valley interested in knowing just how quickly palm trees grow in Arizona. The first factor in calculating the rate at which your palm tree will grow depends on the specific species of your palm tree. While several different palm trees can grow as much as 2 to 3-feet per year, others can take several years to reach their peak of only five feet. The best way to go about planning your landscape is to pay attention to the species you are planting, read up on that species to find out just how much they are going to grow, and also, how fast.

PALM GROWTH RATES

You will be able to look forward to having healthy growing palm trees once the watering, fertilizing, location, and pruning have all been worked out. Each species of palm trees has their own rate of growth. Continue reading below to get a better idea on what the average rate of growth for palm trees are.

FOXTAIL PALMS

As a fast-growing palm tree, the Foxtail Palm will grow 2 to 3-feet per year under normal (ideal) conditions, and reach a height of 30-feet in total height within a 10-year period. A good option for those seeking a rapid growing palm tree for shading. It has a deep root stem feature that gives it the ability to withstand drought conditions.

MEDITERRANEAN PALM

These are also known as European Fan Palm trees and they are slow growers, growing around 6-inches per year, and reaching full maturity of 20-feet in height at a very slow pace. They are however, popular due to their fronds beauty and also their bark. These palms make a nice addition to many residential landscapes for they will not overpower the landscapes visual presentation of the landscape itself or of the home.

MEXICAN FAN PALM

The Mexican Fan Palm tree grows faster than most of the other palm trees. It is also one of Arizona’s more common palm trees, which can get as high as 70 to 100-feet in height, being taller than most of the residential yards can handle. Under normal conditions the Mexican Fan Palm tree will grow as much as 4-feet per year. However, because of their rapid growth and drastic heights they are popular for use in public parks and for commercial uses.

KING PALM

The King Palm is also a rapidly growing palm. They will grow rapidly in soil with good moisture and lots of nutrition. The King Palm will grow at a rate of almost 2-feet per year. Which means that it grows a little bit slower than a Queen Palm. The growing rate for a King Palm can be increased by planting it where it only gets a small amount of shade for the sun will help it to grow faster.

QUEEN PALM

When planted within the USDA hardiness zones 9 – 11, will grow at the rate of about 2-feet per year. Thus, a 15-gal. Queen Palm plant will give you a 25-foot Queen Palm in approximately 10-years. In all, you can consider this to be a fairly high speed of growth.

SPLITTING FIREWOOD

Cut your own wood, it will warm you twice…or so the old saying goes. Read on to learn how you can benefit from this!

WHAT IS NEEDED

A maul or axe. A maul is heaver and has a wider head than an axe which makes it advantageous to splitting wood. But an axe can work just as well for smaller wood splitting jobs. Also, remember that the key isn’t sharpness; you’re not cutting wood or even chopping it (a common misnomer); you’re splitting wood. Seasoned wood splits better, but I usually split the wood green, so I don’t have to stack it again.

If the wood has nails in it, forget it. It’s not worth the risk of damaging your ax, or for that matter your eye when that nail goes flying. And if it’s curvy, don’t bother. I’m no safety expert, but trying to deal with unusual situations is often how accidents happen.

If it’s got a knot in it, skip it, especially if it’s green. You’ll spend all day trying to get through it. The exception is if you can find a line through the center that doesn’t get close to any knot. Then the knots won’t interfere. (“Center” is defined by the grain or splits in the wood, as shown on the right.)

SPLIT IT ALONG THE LINES

Put the piece on its end, on a chopping block if possible. If not, just put it on the ground, propping it as needed to keep it standing. Driving the axe into the ground dulls it, supposedly, but I’ve chopped into dirt countless times and the axe still cuts. Now place yourself such that when you swing with straight arms, the blade will hit the wood, right in the center (picture on left). Err on the side closer to you. Here’s why: if you miss on the side close to you, the blade goes into the ground. But if you miss on the far side, the ax handle hits the wood. Too much of that and you’ll be buying a new handle. (It hurts your arms too.) Making sure there’s no one and nothing you don’t want damaged anywhere nearby, to be hit by flying wood, a flying axe, or anything else . . . stand with your legs apart a little, pull the axe straight back over your head, and swing it straight forward. Build up speed and let the momentum and weight of the axe do the work– not your brute strength.I try to hit the same place every time. I never do. It doesn’t matter. Wood with a slightly ragged edge is not a problem. You will get the axe stuck in the wood and have to wrestle it out (right); that’s also not a problem. Eventually, it will split with a nice crack! Then do a few gentle hits into the crack to separate remaining strands of wood connecting the pieces of wood together. If the piece is bigger, you can still go for the center, but it might be easier to chop pieces off the sides, until you have something manageable.

The Result
Those pieces that you made too small . . . are your best accomplishment, because they’ll help you start the fire. Split wood burns more easily, especially the small pieces. And now that you have a woodpile full of fuel…you can now make a fire!

Source: https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/how-to-split-firewood/

ARE PALM TREES NATIVE TO ARIZONA?

A lot of the residents in Arizona are wondering “Are Palm Trees Native To AZ?” Although there are thousands of palm trees to be seen around the Valley, most of those are not native of Arizona. The majority of palm trees are actually native of tropical climates, such as Florida, Southern California, South Carolina, and countries like Chile, Mexico, Peru, India, Australia, China, among others.

Having so many of them scattered all around Arizona, it may be hard to believe that they are not a native plant of Arizona, with the southern part of Arizona having an abundance of them. There are many of Arizona’s landmarks that incorporate palm plants, being almost as venerated as their iconic cacti. Landscapes all around the state lined up with Date Palms, Mexican Fan Palms, and Queen Palms, including places of retail and commercial properties. It is difficult for many of Arizona’s residents, as well as visitors to Arizona to believe that the majority of the palms in Arizona have been transplanted after being brought from in from tropical climate areas.

ARIZONA’S NATIVE PALM TREE

There is one palm in Arizona which grows naturally. It is the California Fan Palm, and it has been thought that it migrated from animal droppings and transplanted in Arizona, and these grow wild in the area between Yuma and Quartzite within the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge. The California Fan Palm grows wild in the area called the ‘Palm Canyon’.

PEOPLE ADORE PALM TREES

The reason the residents of Arizona adore the palms in their landscape is because it is the icon of the deserts oasis. Since water and shade are hard to come here in Arizona, the residents find the groves of palm trees helps keep them from thinking thoughts about vacationing, leisure, and having fun. The residents welcome shades that are casted by the palm trees, and shades casted by any tree for that matter as it gives them some relief from the hot sun and the desert heat.

ARCHITECTURAL ANCHORS IN LANDSCAPING

Palms give more than a promise of shade, they also make a strong element in the designing process of residential and commercial landscaping projects, as they are known for being “Architectural Plants,” and they can be made a significant part of making a visually stunning landscaping design. Often, they are used as projects in commercial retail real estate, golf courses, city parks, among others for the provisions of visual excitement.

WHERE DO PALM TREES COME FROM?

If Arizona has only one native palm tree, how did the others end up in Arizona? This would depend on the variety you have in mind, or own, or are thinking about purchasing.

THE QUEEN PALMS

Argentina and Brazil are the home of the Queen Palm, and as it features its graceful fronds it grows to be of medium height. Because of their country of origin, they are temperamental and are a little more sensitive than others to the cold winter frost, as well as to the summer heat when it becomes too intense.

THE ROYAL PALMS

The Royal Palms feature a bit of affluence and aristocracy, almost as though they knew they were “Royal.” These are native of tropical Mexico, the Caribbean, and some part of Southern Florida. One of their features is having a rich appearance and at their peak there is deep green skin, in all they have smooth features.

THE MEXICAN FAN PALMS

One of the palms that is most common in Arizona is the Mexican Fan Palm. Of course, you guessed it, these palms come from Mexico, their seed pods are brought to Arizona from Northern Mexico. The Mexican Fan Palms requires their gardener to be a daredevil, and those who trim them must be a professional in order to climb to trim them. These palms will grow-up to incredible heights.