HOW TO CUT DOWN A SMALL TREE

To cut down a small tree you’ll need the right knowledge, safety equipment, planning, and a chainsaw. Planning where the tree will fall after you cut it with the chainsaw is the most important thing apart from safety.

STEPS TO CUT DOWN A SMALL TREE

Safety is always priority #1 and if you’re not absolutely certain you can cut down the tree without injury or damaging housing, call for professional tree removal! Follow these steps to cut down a small tree or call the tree removal professionals at Phoenix Trim-A-Tree.

1. GATHER TOOLS & SAFETY EQUIPMENT

To cut down a small tree you’ll need a chainsaw, eye protection, and ear protection. Consider also wearing clothing that isn’t loose fitting. This is the point where you want to make sure your chainsaw is in good condition and you know how to use it.

2. EXAMINE THE TREE’S SURROUNDINGS

Be aware of what’s within the tree’s potential path when it falls. If there are houses, sheds, power lines, or livestock you should call for professional tree removal. The internet is awash with videos of people who tried to fell their own tree and it land on their home, car, or other property. People should be at least 2 times the distance of the height of the tree while you’re cutting it down.

3. CHOOSE THE DIRECTION THE TREE WILL FALL

If the tree leans in a direction that’s safe to fall you should plan to work with the tree. Whichever direction you choose to fell the tree make sure you’ve got clear lines for escape should it not go as planned. You should plan to escape away from the tree opposite to where it’s falling. Plan to do this at a 45° angle. This takes you out of the danger zone of the trunk of the tree settling straight backwards.

4. CUT A DIAGONAL LINE TO START

The next step is to cut a 70° cut on the side you’re planning for the tree to fall. To do this put the tree on your left side and brace your left shoulder against the tree. Some chainsaws will have a sight that tells you the angle you’re cutting at, use this as a guide if you have it. Make the cut so it is about ¼ of the tree’s overall width.

5. MAKE A RELIEF CUT

The next step is to make a horizontal cut at the deepest point of the cut you made at the last step. This will cut a triangle section of tree out of the tree and help encourage the tree to fall in the planned direction. Inspect the cut and direction the open area of the tree is facing. If it doesn’t look right you should call for professional help to remove your tree. Making more cuts at this point risks it falling in the wrong direction.

6. FELL THE TREE

If you’re 100% sure the cut is facing the right direction you can move on to felling the tree. To do this you will move to the opposite side of the wedge you’ve cut. This cut should start slightly higher than the last horizontal cut. Do not saw all the way through, rather saw just enough to drive a wedge into your cut. You’ll want to have the wedge in but still have enough room to operate the chainsaw without it touching the wedge. Leave about 10% of the center of the tree which will help the tree stay on the stump instead of kicking off and changing direction. At this point you can wait for it to fall or gently push the tree and be read to use your 45° angle escape routes.

REMOVING THE CUT DOWN TREE

Now that the tree is down laying on your landscape you’ve got to get it removed or chopped up into firewood. To start this you’ll need to remove the branches from the tree. Next you’ll need to chop the trunk up into manageable sections.

THE HOW AND WHEN OF PRUNING YOUR FRUIT TREES

The best time to prune fruit trees in Arizona is when it’s cold and the trees are dormant. In Arizona this is typically from February through about April. Any time there will be extensive pruning it should be done earlier than later to avoid leaving large sections of your tree’s bark exposed to direct sunlight. Phoenix Trim-A-Tree offers tree pruning all over the Phoenix valley and can help you make beautiful, healthy, and fruit producing trees. Pruning fruit trees needs to happen when the leaves are off and the tree is dormant. It will be easier to see what you are doing and removing the dormant buds or growing points will invigorate the left over buds. Summer pruning that is normally done by food manufacturers will remove the leaves which slows down fruit ripening and will expose the fruit to sunburn. Summer pruning can be used to slow down vigorously growing trees or those trees that have gotten too large. It is best done in the early summer.

HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT TREES

Fruit trees require a different approach for what stage of life they are in, what goal you have for your tree, and what if anything is wrong with your fruit trees. See below for specific information for trees both young and old, and trees with dead or dying limbs.

NEW FRUIT TREE PRUNING

Right after planting a new tree, you should cut it off to a short stick that is around 25 to 30 inches tall and cut off side shoots that have less than 1 or 2 buds. This will encourage low branching and will equalize the root and top system. Paint your tree with a white latex paint to protect it against sunburn and borer attacks. Low vigor, your young tress need to be pruned heavily and encouraged to rapidly grow for the first 3 years without a lot of fruit. Leave most of the small branches untouched for late fruiting. Young trees may be pruned less or not at all and are encouraged to fruit earlier with branch bending.

ADULT FRUIT TREE PRUNING

Topping the vertical branch encourages the growth needed to develop the tree and will create a bushing effect. Topping the horizontal branch is to renew the fruiting wood and to thin the excess fruit. Thinning vertical branches will open the tree to more light while thinning the horizontal branches will remove the fruit. Horizontal branches that are left uncut will have earlier fruit and heavier crops. Upright branches will normally remain vigorous and vegetative. Horizontal branches will have more fruit. Having a good combination for the two is needed for fruiting. Branches that have been bent 45 to 60 degrees will achieve this balance.

Removing the broken or diseased branches. You should remove the water sprouts, competing branches, and suckers that are growing straight up into the tree. The downward bending branches that are bent more than 90 degrees will eventually lose their vigor and will only produce small fruit, you should cut the part that is hanging down. New growth will happen where you make the cut. The influence of the cut will only affect the bud within 1 to 8 inches of the cut surface and not 4 feet down the tree. The more buds that are cut off the more vigorous the new shoots will be. Sun exposed wood will remain fruitful and will produce the largest fruit. Shaded branches will stop fruiting eventually and will never produce again without topping and renewing the whole tree. Prune most the top of the tree so that lower branches will be exposed to sunlight. You will need to make clean cuts within a fourth of an inch of the bud so that it doesn’t leave stubs.

WHEN TO PRUNE CITRUS TREES IN ARIZONA

The best time to have your citrus tress pruned in Arizona is February through April. This is when the trees are most dormant and before they have bloomed. Although flowers may exist in a very small unseen state removing some through pruning should not impact your yield in all but a minor way. It’s important to take care of extensive pruning as early as possible to give your tree time to come out with new leaves. Shade on the trunk, limbs, and branches is a necessary element of your tree in the heat of Arizona.

TYPES OF FRUIT TREES

Grape, kiwi, peach, and nectarine will bear on the last years shoot growth and they grow a lot so you need to remove at least 50% of the prior year’s growth. For apricots, plumcots, plums, pears, apples, persimmons, feijoa, cherry, almond, pecan, chestnut, walnut, olive, and figs which will bear on less vigorous shoots or spurs, you should remove about 20% of the prior year’s growth. For any citrus fruits, just keep the skirts pruned up off of the ground.

COMMON SICK TREE SYMPTOMS

If you are searching for “Sick Tree Symptoms” or “dying tree symptoms“ to judge if your tree is sick or dying, you have come to the right place. Phoenix Trim A Tree put together a detailed list of the most common sick tree symptoms. Please keep in mind, if you have a sick or dying tree in Phoenix, Tempe, Mesa or anywhere else in the Phoenix Valley, Phoenix Trim A Tree’s certified Arborists can help! We can either treat the tree to help it recover or remove it from your property safely and affordably.

6 MOST COMMON SICK TREE SYMPTOMS

A decaying tree is not only dangerous; it can be really unsightly. Falling limbs may cause expensive damage to landscaping and structures. During windy or stormy weather, a toppled tree may crash through your home and cause death or injury. In order to prevent these issues, a home owner should inspect their property’s trees carefully for signs of a dying or sick tree. Look for symptoms that dead tree removal experts recommend like issues with the bark, roots, branches, leaves and trunk.

1. LEAF SYMPTOMS

The first symptom that a home owner will notice about a sick tree is excessive dropping leaves. There are some deciduous and conifers that will drop needles and leaves according to their natural season cycle. But, a tree that begins to lose most of its leaves suddenly in summer or spring is more likely to be sick. Leaves that are still attached but are shriveled and discolored before fall, is another sign that your tree is sick.

2. BRANCH SYMPTOMS

As well as falling leaves, falling branches are a sign that you may have a dying tree. While a storm may snap branches off a healthy tree, a sick tree will begin to drop bare, leafless branches. When you look at the branch closer, you will notice either insect damage or rot.

3. TRUNK SYMPTOMS

That owl hole that is often shown in tree drawings by children, is actually a really bad sign for your trees health. Inspect your trees for any rot out spaces near the base of the trunk for any other sickness indicators.

4. BARK SYMPTOMS

While a healthy tree will have a pliable, soft bark that has even coverage on the trunks surface, a sick tree will have brittle, flaking bark. Often times there may be bald spots on the sick trees as well. Cracking bark and bald spots on your tree are clear signs of sick of dying trees.

5. ROOT SYMPTOMS

If your trees roots are constantly damages by heavy vehicles, lawnmower cuts, or is constantly waterlogged, then the whole tree may be at risk. Look for signs of sogginess like wood ears or fungus. It is vital that you know and locate various signs of tree sickness, in order to prevent your tree from dying and causing damage to your property.

6. FUNGUS & MUSHROOMS

Mushrooms or fungus growing out of the bark on your tree is a bad sign. When bark is soft and not healthy it gives a place for fungus and mushrooms to grow. If you’ve seen any signs of this on a tree you own you should call for immediate service. With the right care some trees can be saved. For those that cannot our safe tree removal services help safeguard your home and property.

HOW TO LOOK FOR SYMPTOMS

Whether you go and look for symptoms of a sick of dying tree or you have one of our tree care professionals, these are the symptoms to check for. Each of these is indicative of a dying tree or a tree that’s got a disease.

CHECK THE LEAVES

If it isn’t fall and your leaves are falling off fast, or they are dropping large amounts of leaves and that is more than normal, then your tree may be sick. If the leaves are not dropping at all, but they are shriveled up and discolored, that is also a sign that you have sick tree.

EXAMINE BRANCHES

If the branches are falling off, that is a sign that you have a sick tree. Yes, strong storms and winds could knock them off, but a sick tree will drop branches more than usual. They normally will not have leaves when they drop. If you look at the branches closely, you will find that there may be insect damage or tree rot, which explains why your tree is sick.

LOOK AT THE TRUNK

You certainly do not want any dents or holes in the tree trunk. Even though they may make a cozy home for your forest friends, they are a sign that your tree is dying.

CHECK THE BARK

Healthy trees will have healthy bark. Healthy bark is normally soft and flexible. A sick tree will have scratchy, brittle, bark that may fall off. There may also be bald spots which are signs of a sick tree.

CHECK THE ROOTS

There are a lot of things that could hurt your tree roots, from children’s toys, to lawnmowers, to water. If the roots become damaged, then your whole tree is in danger. Check to ensure that your roots are not flooded or scratched in any way.

HOW MUCH DOES EUCALYPTUS TREE REMOVAL COST?

The average cost of eucalyptus tree removal is $1417. Eucalyptus tree removal costs ranged from $708 to $2,126 for the US for 2019 according to Gottreequotes.

The average eucalyptus tree removal cost for a tree with a trunk diameter of fewer than 30 centimeters and a height of 2-4 stories is $885. Eucalyptus tree removal costs for a tree with a trunk diameter of fewer than 30 centimeters and a height of 2-4 stories ranged from $708 to $1063 in 2018-2019.

The average eucalyptus tree removal cost for a tree with a trunk diameter of fewer than 50 centimeters and a height of 2-4 stories is $1,701. Eucalyptus tree removal costs for a tree with a trunk diameter of fewer than 50 centimeters and a height of 2-4 stories ranged from $1,276 to $2,126 in 2018-2019.

This price usually includes the cutting of the eucalyptus tree down into a short stump. In some cases, they may also include the cutting up of the trunk into smaller sections, though you may have to pay extra for that.

Additional items that can add to the total cost of your eucalyptus tree removal, including the following.

HAUL AWAY TRUNK – You could pay up to $250 more to have the trunk sections hauled away as well.

MILEAGE – There is usually a charge for travel and mileage when eucalyptus tree removal services have to come from outside of the immediate area.

STUMP REMOVAL – You can expect to pay an additional $74 to $215 If you’d like the stump to be ground away.

TYPES OF EUCALYPTUS TREES

Native to Australia, there are three main kinds of Eucalyptus Trees- all of the mare long living, feature bark that exfoliates and their leaves have that familiar eucalyptus aroma.

MALLET EUCALYPTUS TREES – Easy to spot because of their notable space between branches that angle upwards, away from the central trunk of the tree, therefore letting light to filter between the branches. Two popular examples are the red-spotted gum tree and the sugar gum tree. Both of them can reach heights of 50-60 feet, and they thrive in warmer USDA plant hardiness areas in zones 9 and 10.

MARLOCK EUCALYPTUS TREES – Offering dense foliage nearly reaching the ground, this kind of eucalyptus offers oval leaves and line colored flowers. Known as one of the more hardier kinds of eucalyptus tree it will grow quite contentedly in USDA zones 7 and 8.

MALLEE EUCALYPTUS TREES – These eucalyptus trees can almost look shrub-like in their appearance and are usually under ten feet in height. It can also be recognized by its bushy experience and many stems.

ISSUES WITH SOME EUCALYPTUS TREES

Blue Gum Eucalyptus trees are capable of becoming invasive if they escape cultivation. These trees can shade out native plants when they grow in the wild. Another issue is the pungent oils from the leaves of eucalyptus trees are flammable and can become fire hazards when they are located in forests or planted together.

HOW MUCH DOES PINE TREE REMOVAL COST?

The average cost to remove a pine tree in Phoenix is $850. Pine tree removal costs range from $200 to $1,500. For small pine trees, removal costs about $200. For giant pine trees, you can pay $1,500 dollars or more. As pine trees easily grow upwards of 60 feet and in some cases up to 80 feet, they are among the densest and largest growing trees out there. Larger pine trees above 80-90 feet will cost an average of $1,500 because of the potential danger of the work involved in the removal process. Many pine trees require extra labor for a safe removal to be performed because of removing branches with cones and needles. The professionals have to sport a great deal of safety gear to make sure they avoid getting pine caught in their eyes and scratches to their skin.

EXTRA SERVICES

• The cost of chipping averages $113 with costs ranging from $65 to $150.
• The cost of log splitting (pine usually makes good firewood) is often charged additionally and averages around $75.
• The cost of removal can add an average of $50 for haulage charges.
• The cost of stump removal averages $2.50 per inch of the stump with prices ranging from $2 to $3 per inch of diameter. Some companies have a minimum charge of $100 per stump. Others charge by the stump. For example, $150 for the first stump and a lower rate, perhaps $50 for additional stumps.
• The cost for land clearance if you have a large area with many stumps to be removed may be charged on an hourly basis with an average of $150 per hour depending on the diameter of the tree stumps to be removed.

TYPES OF PINE TREES

Many pine trees are native to Arizona. Here are some that may be on your property.

PONDEROSA PINE – Very popular in the altitude and climates of northern Arizona, they can grow to over 125 feet in height. It is much desired for timber.

COLORADO PINION – Well known for producing a delicious nut, they can be found between altitudes of 4,000 to 7,000 feet. It’s nut bearing cousin, the Mexcian Pinion is found at similar elevations in the southern part of Arizona.

BRISTLECONE PINE – The Grand-Daddy of them all. Amazingly they can live to over 4000 years old in part because they only survive at elevations of 9,500 to 12,000 feet.

LIMBER PINE – Noted for its drooping limbs, they are found high in the mountains at elevations above 8,000 feet.

SOUTHWESTERN WHITE PINE – Bordering southern Arizona and northern Mexico, they distinguish themselves from a lack of stomata on the back of the leaves. But you have to hike to find them, as they reside at altitudes of 6,5000 to 10,000 feet.

CHIHUAHUAN PINE – Native to the south of the White River and in the Santa Catalina and Santa Rita Mountains, this tree is found on the dry sloped between 5,000 and 7,500 feet.

APACHE PINE – Noted for its extremely long needles, it looks somewhat similar to many of the pines found in the southeastern United States. Native to the southern part of Arizona at the lower elevations of the mountain ranges.

ISSUES WITH SOME PINE TREES

Pine trees can leave the soil in an acidic state after removal. Add lime to change the pH level of the soil while it rests over the rest of the year.