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Fall Tree Care In Phoenix

FALL TREE CARE IN PHOENIX

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Fall tree care helps prepare your trees for high winds and storms in Phoenix. This prevents potentially serious and costly damage at your home or business. As temperatures begin to fall and so do the leaves our trees need to be prepared for the cooler months in Arizona. While it might seem like there isn’t much we can do to help relieve the stress of colder weather on our trees there are a few steps you can take to help them weather the winter and pop back into life in the spring.

TOP 5 FALL TREE CARE TIPS

The following tips should help you maintain healthier trees that grow better and survive the colder months. Fall is primetime for planting. If you are adding trees to your landscape fall is one of the best times of year to get that job done. Once colder weather has set in the conditions are just right for encouraging new root development. The roots spend the fall and winter digging in deep to get the nutrients and moisture they need and are ready to spring forth and have great top side growth when warmer weather returns. Shrubs and trees that have balled bases are best planted in the fall, for bare root plants it is better to wait a little longer into the cold months for the plants to be completely dormant.

1. PLANT NEW TREES & BUSHES

Fall in the Phoenix Valley is the best time to plant new trees and shrubs. It’s the perfect time of year to plant these new additions to your landscape as it gives them time to establish solid roots before the summer heat. In addition there’s more shade, plants use less water, and you can prep the plant for success with fertilizer. Take full advantage of fall’s cooler temperatures to plant your new fruit tree, evergreen tree, cactus or whichever plant you like best.

2. KEEP WATERING THROUGH THE YEAR

Drought isn’t just a summer occurrence. While it might seem like all your trees are doing is hibernating during the winter months they still need water. Don’t forget to continue watering your trees through the cooler months as long as there isn’t any freezing.

3. PROVIDE SOME INSULATION ON SOIL

Use mulch to your advantage. Not only does mulch increase the nutrient content in the soil around your trees, but it can have an insulating effect during the cooler months. Use composted organic mulch around the base of your tree and it will help reduce temperature exposure and help retain the water during these months.

4. GET THE PRUNING DONE

Fall is prime pruning time. When the leaves drop it is a good time to be able to see the way your tree is growing and notice rouge branches that aren’t going where you need them to. It is also when the tree is more dormant and will endure the trimming and pruning better. Pruning in the right way and at the right time of year is critical to having a healthy tree that is the pride of your landscape.

5. PROTECT TREES FROM PESTS & ANIMALS

Prevent mechanical damage to your trees. While snow and ice isn’t typically a problem in southern Arizona different type of animals can chew on the trunks of our trees and cause damage. You can wrap younger trees in hard plastic guard, or a metal hardware cloth. Plastic cloth or burlap can be used in colder Arizona climates to provide additional insulation to help younger trees weather the colder months.

WHAT MAKES FALL TREE CARE IMPORTANT?

The extreme heat that Arizona is famous for weakens trees. This makes them more prone to infestation. Taking steps to help your trees recover for the heat before the winter sets in helps keep them growing for years to come. During the fall and winter some storms have increased wind speeds and heavy rainfall. These conditions test the health of trees and can spell disaster. When we care for and prune sections of the tree that are not healthy we remove the sections carefully. When wind or nature removes a limb or branch it does so forcefully and can damage the tree where it breaks off.

PROFESSIONAL FALL TREE CARE IN PHOENIX

Phoenix Trim-a-Tree has all of the knowledge, equipment, and training to safely carry out all of your tree trimming, pruning, and fall tree care in the Phoenix valley. It is important to get the work done for the health of your trees and landscape. It can be as easy as a phone call to have safe and professional tree service.

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How To Cut Down A Small Tree

HOW TO CUT DOWN A SMALL TREE

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To cut down a small tree you’ll need the right knowledge, safety equipment, planning, and a chainsaw. Planning where the tree will fall after you cut it with the chainsaw is the most important thing apart from safety.

STEPS TO CUT DOWN A SMALL TREE

Safety is always priority #1 and if you’re not absolutely certain you can cut down the tree without injury or damaging housing, call for professional tree removal! Follow these steps to cut down a small tree or call the tree removal professionals at Phoenix Trim-A-Tree.

1. GATHER TOOLS & SAFETY EQUIPMENT

To cut down a small tree you’ll need a chainsaw, eye protection, and ear protection. Consider also wearing clothing that isn’t loose fitting. This is the point where you want to make sure your chainsaw is in good condition and you know how to use it.

2. EXAMINE THE TREE’S SURROUNDINGS

Be aware of what’s within the tree’s potential path when it falls. If there are houses, sheds, power lines, or livestock you should call for professional tree removal. The internet is awash with videos of people who tried to fell their own tree and it land on their home, car, or other property. People should be at least 2 times the distance of the height of the tree while you’re cutting it down.

3. CHOOSE THE DIRECTION THE TREE WILL FALL

If the tree leans in a direction that’s safe to fall you should plan to work with the tree. Whichever direction you choose to fell the tree make sure you’ve got clear lines for escape should it not go as planned. You should plan to escape away from the tree opposite to where it’s falling. Plan to do this at a 45° angle. This takes you out of the danger zone of the trunk of the tree settling straight backwards.

4. CUT A DIAGONAL LINE TO START

The next step is to cut a 70° cut on the side you’re planning for the tree to fall. To do this put the tree on your left side and brace your left shoulder against the tree. Some chainsaws will have a sight that tells you the angle you’re cutting at, use this as a guide if you have it. Make the cut so it is about ¼ of the tree’s overall width.

5. MAKE A RELIEF CUT

The next step is to make a horizontal cut at the deepest point of the cut you made at the last step. This will cut a triangle section of tree out of the tree and help encourage the tree to fall in the planned direction. Inspect the cut and direction the open area of the tree is facing. If it doesn’t look right you should call for professional help to remove your tree. Making more cuts at this point risks it falling in the wrong direction.

6. FELL THE TREE

If you’re 100% sure the cut is facing the right direction you can move on to felling the tree. To do this you will move to the opposite side of the wedge you’ve cut. This cut should start slightly higher than the last horizontal cut. Do not saw all the way through, rather saw just enough to drive a wedge into your cut. You’ll want to have the wedge in but still have enough room to operate the chainsaw without it touching the wedge. Leave about 10% of the center of the tree which will help the tree stay on the stump instead of kicking off and changing direction. At this point you can wait for it to fall or gently push the tree and be read to use your 45° angle escape routes.

REMOVING THE CUT DOWN TREE

Now that the tree is down laying on your landscape you’ve got to get it removed or chopped up into firewood. To start this you’ll need to remove the branches from the tree. Next you’ll need to chop the trunk up into manageable sections.

REMOVE BRANCHES FROM TREE

This process can still be dangerous as branches and limbs can be under tension from falling. Carefully begin at the lowest part of the trunk and remove the branches by cutting them safely with your chainsaw. You can do this by either cutting up or down with your chain saw about half way through the branch. Next cut the other side about 1 inch closer to the trunk than your first cut. These offset cuts help prevent the saw from binding or kicking back. Avoid cutting branches that you can see are supporting the weight of the felled tree. These can spring out and injure you quite badly. Instead cut off the branches that are free of tension and roll the tree later to expose the remaining branches.

CUTTING THE TREE TRUNK

The next step is to process the trunk of the tree. It should be free of branches, limbs, or twigs at this point. Use the offset cutting process at points where you believe the tree will settle and squeeze the saw blade. If it binds it can kick the chainsaw back violently and injure you. By cutting half way through on one side and then finishing the cut on the opposite side at a 1 inch offset you have more control and it’s safer. As you cut the trunk into smaller and smaller pieced be careful cutting directly on the ground. Cut half way through and then roll the log and finish the cut on the other side. Cut the sections of the tree trunk into sections that are lite enough to handle and even to chop later with a wood splitter or axe for firewood.

PHOENIX VALLEY TREE REMOVAL

If you don’t have the tools, time, or want to risk your safety or your home call for professional tree removal. Our team plants, cares for, and removes trees; so we know the ins and outs of how trees grow and how to remove trees safely. Phoenix Trim-A-Tree is licensed and insured for your peace of mind as we preform tree removal or any of our other services. Call today to get that old, dying, or dead tree removed from your property in the Phoenix Valley of Arizona.

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How To Trim A Palm Tree

HOW TO TRIM A PALM TREE

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To trim a palm tree you will need to identify which parts should be removed by their color and condition, have the right tools, and safety equipment. If you’re searching for “how to trim a palm tree?” or “how to skin a palm tree?” our tree trimming experts are here to help. Palm trees grow quickly and without the right equipment are dangerous to trim yourself. Read about how we trim palm trees to keep them looking great.

CHECK PALM TREE CONDITION & HEALTH

The first step is to check out your palm or palm trees for signs they need to be trimmed. Your focus should only be areas that are dead, dying, block visibility at the road, pose a fire hazard, and to prevent damage during storms.

TOOLS & SAFETY EQUIPMENT

When you’ve identified areas on your palm that are dead, dying, or dangerous you’ll need to get your tools and safety equipment organized. Personal safety is a priority for any project. Our palm tree trimmers wear durable gloves, safety googles, and for taller trees climbing harnesses. Palm frond edges are incredibly sharp and can cut your hands and the goggles are a must for any type of tree trimming. Tools used to trim palm trees include sharp serrated knives, pruning shears, saws, and even chainsaws. All of these tools are well maintained, and our teams are trained extensively for their safe and effective use.

TRIM AWAY DEAD, DYING, OR DAMAGED PALM FRONDS

With our safety equipment in place and the right tools our teams go to work removing only the necessary parts of your palm tree. Over trimming or pruning a palm tree can actually harm it. For this reason, most property owners in Phoenix choose to have our team come and take care of palm tree trimming.

TRIM AWAY FRUIT, FLOWERS, & SEEDS

If your variety of palm tree has fruit, flowers, and seeds we trim those items away. Allowing those to grow takes away valuable nutrients from your tree. They also are dangerous for pedestrians walking near the tree and can actually attract pests to your property.

TREE TRIMMING WASTE HAUL AWAY

The last step in trimming a palm tree is getting rid of the fruit, flowers, seeds, and fronds. They should all be disposed of as organic waste and handled carefully to avoid injury. The frond are sharp and the flowers, fruit, and seeds can cause offensive odors if left to rot on the landscape. Our team knows the right way to dispose of palm tree waste in the Phoenix Valley.

MARK THE CALENDAR

Over trimming palm trees is bad for their health and your wallet. You never want to trim a palm tree more than once a year. Some trees may need it less than that. Whenever you’re in doubt as to if a palm tree needs to be trimmed our how to do it safely give our team a call!

PALM TREE TRIMMING SERVICE

Palm tree trimming requires sharp tools and high heights. This is a dangerous mix for property owners without the right tools and training. Our team knows what needs to be trimmed and how to do it safely to protect your property and prevent personal injury. We are licensed and insured for all of our tree trimming and tree removal services. Give us a call if you’ve got a palm that’s seen better days and we will spruce it up with our palm tree trimming service.

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The How and When of Pruning your Fruit Trees

THE HOW AND WHEN OF PRUNING YOUR FRUIT TREES

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The best time to prune fruit trees in Arizona is when it’s cold and the trees are dormant. In Arizona this is typically from February through about April. Any time there will be extensive pruning it should be done earlier than later to avoid leaving large sections of your tree’s bark exposed to direct sunlight. Phoenix Trim-A-Tree offers tree pruning all over the Phoenix valley and can help you make beautiful, healthy, and fruit producing trees. Pruning fruit trees needs to happen when the leaves are off and the tree is dormant. It will be easier to see what you are doing and removing the dormant buds or growing points will invigorate the left over buds. Summer pruning that is normally done by food manufacturers will remove the leaves which slows down fruit ripening and will expose the fruit to sunburn. Summer pruning can be used to slow down vigorously growing trees or those trees that have gotten too large. It is best done in the early summer.

HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT TREES

Fruit trees require a different approach for what stage of life they are in, what goal you have for your tree, and what if anything is wrong with your fruit trees. See below for specific information for trees both young and old, and trees with dead or dying limbs.

NEW FRUIT TREE PRUNING

Right after planting a new tree, you should cut it off to a short stick that is around 25 to 30 inches tall and cut off side shoots that have less than 1 or 2 buds. This will encourage low branching and will equalize the root and top system. Paint your tree with a white latex paint to protect it against sunburn and borer attacks. Low vigor, your young tress need to be pruned heavily and encouraged to rapidly grow for the first 3 years without a lot of fruit. Leave most of the small branches untouched for late fruiting. Young trees may be pruned less or not at all and are encouraged to fruit earlier with branch bending.

ADULT FRUIT TREE PRUNING

Topping the vertical branch encourages the growth needed to develop the tree and will create a bushing effect. Topping the horizontal branch is to renew the fruiting wood and to thin the excess fruit. Thinning vertical branches will open the tree to more light while thinning the horizontal branches will remove the fruit. Horizontal branches that are left uncut will have earlier fruit and heavier crops. Upright branches will normally remain vigorous and vegetative. Horizontal branches will have more fruit. Having a good combination for the two is needed for fruiting. Branches that have been bent 45 to 60 degrees will achieve this balance.

Removing the broken or diseased branches. You should remove the water sprouts, competing branches, and suckers that are growing straight up into the tree. The downward bending branches that are bent more than 90 degrees will eventually lose their vigor and will only produce small fruit, you should cut the part that is hanging down. New growth will happen where you make the cut. The influence of the cut will only affect the bud within 1 to 8 inches of the cut surface and not 4 feet down the tree. The more buds that are cut off the more vigorous the new shoots will be. Sun exposed wood will remain fruitful and will produce the largest fruit. Shaded branches will stop fruiting eventually and will never produce again without topping and renewing the whole tree. Prune most the top of the tree so that lower branches will be exposed to sunlight. You will need to make clean cuts within a fourth of an inch of the bud so that it doesn’t leave stubs.

WHEN TO PRUNE CITRUS TREES IN ARIZONA

The best time to have your citrus tress pruned in Arizona is February through April. This is when the trees are most dormant and before they have bloomed. Although flowers may exist in a very small unseen state removing some through pruning should not impact your yield in all but a minor way. It’s important to take care of extensive pruning as early as possible to give your tree time to come out with new leaves. Shade on the trunk, limbs, and branches is a necessary element of your tree in the heat of Arizona.

TYPES OF FRUIT TREES

Grape, kiwi, peach, and nectarine will bear on the last years shoot growth and they grow a lot so you need to remove at least 50% of the prior year’s growth. For apricots, plumcots, plums, pears, apples, persimmons, feijoa, cherry, almond, pecan, chestnut, walnut, olive, and figs which will bear on less vigorous shoots or spurs, you should remove about 20% of the prior year’s growth. For any citrus fruits, just keep the skirts pruned up off of the ground.

PHOENIX AREA TREE PRUNING SERVICE

If you would like some help maintaining your trees in the Valley of the Sun our technicians are highly trained to take care of your trees the right way, and keep your property safe. When larger limbs and branches need to be removed it can be tricky and dangerous without the right training and safety equipment. Let us take care of your fruit trees the right way to get the best growth, fruit production, and take the guess work out of the job. For service simply call 480-962-0701.

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Winter Time Tree Trimming & Pruning Arizona

WINTER TIME TREE TRIMMING & PRUNING ARIZONA

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Winter trim tree trimming & pruning in Arizona keeps your trees to attractive and healthy. Winter time is the best time of the year to pay more attention to your shrubs and trees. The leaves should all be gone by now and most plants made out of wood become dormant, making this a perfect time to give them up trim up. This post will help you find how, what and why you should prune.

3 STEP TREE TRIMMING PROCESS

To correctly remove a larger branch of limb from a tree there is a 3 step process. This process was developed by Dr. Alex Shigo, who is a well known plant pathologist and pioneer in what is today’s modern tree care methods. His process that is widely used today focuses on removing branch tissue while ensuring no damage to the bark tissue or stem. Today his methods are used by virtually all commercial tree trimming companies. Correctly trimmed trees and plants produce more fruit and flowers. The right pruning actually helps shrubs and trees steer clear of diseases and pests so you won’t need to care for them as much. Here is a guide on how-to prune any flowering fruit tree or shrub.

STEP 1 – FIRST CUT

The first cut is simply a notch on the underside of the branch near the branch collar. It’s important to not cut all the way through and just create a notch in the underside of the tree. It allows the branch to fall away without the bark pulling and tearing as it falls.

STEP 2 – SECOND CUT

The second cut is the cut that removes the branch from the tree. It should be done about 2 or 3 inches from the first cut. After this cut the branch should fall leaving a short sub. The purpose of removing the branch and temporarily leaving a stub is so the stub can be removed safely without the weight of the branch.

STEP 3 – THIRD CUT

The third and final cut to trim the tree is done just outside the upper branch bark ridge and angles down away from your branch collar. If done correctly this 3 cut method the wounded area will produce a callus that encloses over the trimmed branch area.

TREE TRIMMING NOTES

It’s important to follow through and remove the stub left after your second cut. Leaving a branch stub will lead to decay and or delay a tree from closing the wound made by trimming. It’s important to not cut into the branch collar or bark ridge when removing a branch or limb. If the branch collar is wounded during the trimming it opens your tree up to diseases.

INVIGORATE YOUR TREE IN THE WINTER TIME WITH PRUNING

During the dormant season – pruning in the winter invigorates shrubs and trees because it gives plants extra energy reserves due to the extra root which will ensure new growth on the pruned branches. Pruning in the dormant-season is good for yourself as well because you see the branches clearly without leaves in the way. It also gives you a reason to get out of the house during the mild cold days. Here is a quick list of trees and shrubs you can safely prune from winter until spring. Also, a list of tree you shouldn’t prune in the winter season.

TREES YOU CAN PRUNE IN WINTER

  • Crabapples
  • Bradford & Callory Pears
  • Poplar
  • Spruce
  • Sumacs
  • Bald Cypress
  • Junipers
  • Cherries
  • Honey Locust
  • Plums

TREES YOU CAN PRUNE IN LATE WINTER

  • Summer Flowering Trees
  • Hydrangea Paniculataand Arborescens
  • Fruit Trees
  • Roses

SHRUBS YOU CAN PRUNE IN WINTER

  • Beauty Berries
  • Mallow
  • Camellias (After They Finish Blooming)
  • European Hornbeam
  • Glossy Abelia
  • Euonymous
  • Hydrangeas
  • Barberries

DON’T PRUNE DURING WINTER

Some trees “bleed” or ooze sap when pruned in late winter or early spring. While oozing sap is not dangerous to the tree, it can make a sticky, dirty mess, especially on parked cars. Prune these trees in summer or fall:

  • Maples
  • Birches
  • Dogwoods
  • Walnuts
  • Elms

WHAT NOT TO PRUNE IN LATE WINTER

  • Spring Flowering Shrubs
  • Spring Flowering Trees
  • Hydrangea macrophylla
  • Once Blooming Roses
  • Gardenias
  • Bleeding Trees

THE RIGHT CUTS DURING WINTER

  • Remove dying or dead branches.
  • Prune out diseased and damaged limbs.
  • Cut back overgrown branches where you mow or walk so they don’t fall off.
  • Prune of small branches where two cross.
  • Make sure thin branches are allowed air and sunlight.

MAKE SURE AND CUT BELOW DISEASED OR DAMAGED AREAS AND DO NOT PRUNE WET PLANTS(WATER SPREADS DISEASES). TO BE EXTRA CAUTIOUS MAKE SURE AND RINSE TOOLS WITH 10% BLEACH WATER SOLUTION.

PRUNING DO’S

Do cut angles that mirror branch collars-the spot where the truck and branch meet. Cut branches next to branch collars. If you make the cut correctly you will notice a circle shape of callus that will swell around that very spot. Do cut bigger branches in the three different parts. Start with cutting off about 1/3rd of the branch to lower the weight. This makes ensures that you don’t hurt you back or break your saw from trying to hold up a heavy branch. Lastly, undercut the stub so the bark wont rip when the stub falls. The final cut should be made from the top and beside the branch collar but not cutting into it.

PRUNING DON’TS

Don’t leave cut down stubs behind. They invite insects and can cause disease to move to your health tree tissues. Don’t cut the top off of your trees, a tree with a flat top doesn’t look right and it will grow weaker when the new sprout grown instead of healthy branches. Cut the tree naturally and let it grow towards the sky.

WHEN TO SEEK ADVICE FROM A PROFESSIONAL TREE EXPERT

Most pruning work can be done by home gardeners and do-it-yourselfers. You should call a tree trimming company if any of the following apply.

• YOU CAN’T MAKE THE CUT FROM STANDING ON THE GROUND OR WITH POLE PRUNING TOOLS
• YOU PLAN ON PRUNING TREES OR SHRUBS THAT ARE CLOSE TO POWER LINES (VERY DANGEROUS)
• YOU HAVE STORM DAMAGE WITH HEAVY TREE LIMBS THAT ARE UNSTABLE OR STILL HANGING FROM THE TREE

Needless to say, if you are thinking of pruning your own trees and shrubs during the winter season, go ahead and do so. Just make sure you’re safe, and if you need a tree professional, please give our team a call!

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Lisbon Lemon Tree Care

LISBON LEMON TREE CARE

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Lisbon lemon trees are quite popular in Arizona. Lisbon lemon trees can tolerate harsh heat and windy conditions but are somewhat “frost sensitive”. Luckily Arizona doesn’t get must frost, so planting and harvesting a Lisbon Lemon tree in Arizona is very possible and with the right tree care your lemon tree can grow up to 30′ tall. So, get ready for Lisbon Lemon tree care tips from the experts at Phoenix Trim A Tree.

PLANTING YOUR LISBON LEMON TREE

Make sure and plant your Lisbon lemon tree in a area where it can receive full sun. Soil should drain easily as lemon trees do not grow well in standing water. If you live in a colder part of Arizona, such as Flagstaff, you are going to want to grow your lemon tree in a container that can be moved inside your home during the winter months.

HOW MUCH MULCH DO I NEED FOR PLANTING?

The root zone should be buried in 4-6″ of mulch. Mulch will reduce the amount of moisture loss and reduces the amount of weed grown around the base of the tree.

LISBON LEMON TREE CARE

Lemon trees need sun, water, fertilizer and pruning just like every other plant. Read about how to water your lemon tree, protect them from the cold, fertilize them, and how to prune and harvest your lemons.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I WATER MY LEMON TREE

Lisbon lemon trees need to be watered regularly, especially during the first 3 years, or their 1st growing season as experts would call it.

WATERING DURING THE SUMMER – Water your Lisbon tree once a week during the summer months.

WATERING THE REST OF THE YEAR – For the rest of the year, only water your lemon tree every other week.

WATERING AFTER THE FIRST YEAR – You can reduce the amount of watering after the first year to prevent over watering.

LEMON TREE FEEDING/FERTILIZER

Lemon trees in general need a hefty supply of food (nutrients) to have healthy growth. Although, you won’t use a general fertilizer for Lisbon trees, you are going to want to use a citrus fertilizer that is made for citrus trees. You should re-fertilize your tree 2-3 during the growing season. The first re-fertilization should take place in spring. You’re going to want to fertilize before the new growth comes, not after, and then again at the beginning of September. If you are growing your lemon tree indoors, you are going to want to re-fertilize every month during the hot months to keep the soil moist and rich.

LISBON LEMON TREE PRUNING

STEP 1 – Choose the proper time to prune
STEP 2 – Remove all fruit from the tree
STEP 3 – Prune any branches that are damaged or diseased all the way back to the base
STEP 4 – Cut any branches that are smaller than the diameter of a pencil
STEP 5 – Prune suckers as they appear at any time

Usually, trees are only pruned during their dormant periods but lemon trees don’t have one. So, you should only prune or shape your Lisbon lemon tree during the cold months while the tree growth has slowed. Also, any suckers on the trunk of the tree should be removed. Also, to produce larger lemons, pinch off excess lemons while they are still tiny and leave 4-6″ between them. Read Wiki How’s Article on “How To Prune A Lemon Tree: 12 Steps (with Pictures)” for more information about pruning your Lisbon lemon tree.

PROTECTING YOUR LEMONS FROM THE COLD

As we learned above, Lisbon trees are sensitive to frost. Cold temperatures are one of the only things that can kill your Lisbon tree. Use Christmas lights strung through a canopy to provide extra heat during the cold months. For the coldest months, you can wrap your canopy in a blanket for additional heat.

HARVESTING YOUR LEMON TREE

Lisbon trees usually produce fruit within 3 years of planting.

IN CONCLUSION

  • Plant Your Lemon Tree In A Sunny Area With Good Drainage
  • Plant Your Lemon Tree in 4-6 inches of mulch
  • Water your lemon tree every week during the summer months and every other week after that
  • Feed your lemon tree nutrient rich citrus fertilizer
  • Only prune your Lisbon tree during the winter months
  • Protect your lemon trees from the cold, it’s the only thing that can kill them

Thank you for reading “Lisbon Lemon Tree Care” by Phoenix Trim A Tree. If you haven’t done so already, make sure and check out our post “Growing Lemon Trees In Arizona” for more information.

LISBON LEMON TREE CARE SERVICES

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Common Sick Tree Symptoms

COMMON SICK TREE SYMPTOMS

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If you are searching for “Sick Tree Symptoms” or “dying tree symptoms“ to judge if your tree is sick or dying, you have come to the right place. Phoenix Trim A Tree put together a detailed list of the most common sick tree symptoms. Please keep in mind, if you have a sick or dying tree in Phoenix, Tempe, Mesa or anywhere else in the Phoenix Valley, Phoenix Trim A Tree’s certified Arborists can help! We can either treat the tree to help it recover or remove it from your property safely and affordably.

6 MOST COMMON SICK TREE SYMPTOMS

A decaying tree is not only dangerous; it can be really unsightly. Falling limbs may cause expensive damage to landscaping and structures. During windy or stormy weather, a toppled tree may crash through your home and cause death or injury. In order to prevent these issues, a home owner should inspect their property’s trees carefully for signs of a dying or sick tree. Look for symptoms that dead tree removal experts recommend like issues with the bark, roots, branches, leaves and trunk.

1. LEAF SYMPTOMS

The first symptom that a home owner will notice about a sick tree is excessive dropping leaves. There are some deciduous and conifers that will drop needles and leaves according to their natural season cycle. But, a tree that begins to lose most of its leaves suddenly in summer or spring is more likely to be sick. Leaves that are still attached but are shriveled and discolored before fall, is another sign that your tree is sick.

2. BRANCH SYMPTOMS

As well as falling leaves, falling branches are a sign that you may have a dying tree. While a storm may snap branches off a healthy tree, a sick tree will begin to drop bare, leafless branches. When you look at the branch closer, you will notice either insect damage or rot.

3. TRUNK SYMPTOMS

That owl hole that is often shown in tree drawings by children, is actually a really bad sign for your trees health. Inspect your trees for any rot out spaces near the base of the trunk for any other sickness indicators.

4. BARK SYMPTOMS

While a healthy tree will have a pliable, soft bark that has even coverage on the trunks surface, a sick tree will have brittle, flaking bark. Often times there may be bald spots on the sick trees as well. Cracking bark and bald spots on your tree are clear signs of sick of dying trees.

5. ROOT SYMPTOMS

If your trees roots are constantly damages by heavy vehicles, lawnmower cuts, or is constantly waterlogged, then the whole tree may be at risk. Look for signs of sogginess like wood ears or fungus. It is vital that you know and locate various signs of tree sickness, in order to prevent your tree from dying and causing damage to your property.

6. FUNGUS & MUSHROOMS

Mushrooms or fungus growing out of the bark on your tree is a bad sign. When bark is soft and not healthy it gives a place for fungus and mushrooms to grow. If you’ve seen any signs of this on a tree you own you should call for immediate service. With the right care some trees can be saved. For those that cannot our safe tree removal services help safeguard your home and property.

HOW TO LOOK FOR SYMPTOMS

Whether you go and look for symptoms of a sick of dying tree or you have one of our tree care professionals, these are the symptoms to check for. Each of these is indicative of a dying tree or a tree that’s got a disease.

CHECK THE LEAVES

If it isn’t fall and your leaves are falling off fast, or they are dropping large amounts of leaves and that is more than normal, then your tree may be sick. If the leaves are not dropping at all, but they are shriveled up and discolored, that is also a sign that you have sick tree.

EXAMINE BRANCHES

If the branches are falling off, that is a sign that you have a sick tree. Yes, strong storms and winds could knock them off, but a sick tree will drop branches more than usual. They normally will not have leaves when they drop. If you look at the branches closely, you will find that there may be insect damage or tree rot, which explains why your tree is sick.

LOOK AT THE TRUNK

You certainly do not want any dents or holes in the tree trunk. Even though they may make a cozy home for your forest friends, they are a sign that your tree is dying.

CHECK THE BARK

Healthy trees will have healthy bark. Healthy bark is normally soft and flexible. A sick tree will have scratchy, brittle, bark that may fall off. There may also be bald spots which are signs of a sick tree.

CHECK THE ROOTS

There are a lot of things that could hurt your tree roots, from children’s toys, to lawnmowers, to water. If the roots become damaged, then your whole tree is in danger. Check to ensure that your roots are not flooded or scratched in any way.

YOU MAY REQUIRE TREE REMOVAL SERVICES

If all of these symptoms check out, then your tree may not be sick. It doesn’t hurt to get a professional opinion whenever you are dealing with a tree that could be dangerous if it dies and falls over. If you think your tree is dead or you would just rather it be removed from your property in the Phoenix, Arizona Metropolitan Area, check out our tree removal page.

CALL 480-962-0701
CONTACT US HERE

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Save A Dying Cactus: How To Revive Your Plant

SAVE A DYING CACTUS: HOW TO REVIVE YOUR PLANT

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If you are searching for How To Save a Dying Cactus, this article should help. Most people who buy and tend cacti love them. When they get sick it’s upsetting as they’ve likely been around for years. Use these steps to help save a dying cactus at your home or business.

CUT ROTTING PARTS AWAY

Rotting is generally a sign of overwatering. The black or brown sections of the cactus must be cut away. Then you must decide if your soil is completely soaked and should be put in a new pot with new soil, or if you’ll be able to let it dry out and begin your new watering schedule again. If you decide to repot your cactus you should use mix one part peat, two parts garden soil, and two parts coarse sand.

ADJUST DAILY SUNLIGHT

Depending on the sunlight available your cactus may be getting too much or not enough sunlight. For cactus which are becoming more narrow or rounded more sunlight should be added. Either place the plant where it gets more hours of sunlight a day or choose to move it in the midday for best results.

ADJUST WATERING

For cacti that look wilted, are shrinking, or are wrinkled you should add water. It’s important to allow the soil to completely dry before watering, to avoid root rot. If your cactus is in a pot it should be one where excess water will drain easily. Watering should be adjusted based on the temperature and season. During the hotter parts of the year you’ll want to water about 1 time per week indoors. During the cooler months of the year you’ll want to back that off and only water when the soil is dried out completely. For outdoors you’ll need to monitor the soil and water when it’s bone dry and there’s no rain in the forecast. Learn how to water a cactus here.

RINSE OFF DIRT & DUST

When the flesh of the cactus is covered with dirt or dust it cannot process the light properly. You can use a soft sponge or rag to rinse off this residue. You can wipe it down with a sponge soaked in water and a drop of dish soap or you may choose to rinse off your cactus under the faucet in the sink. For outdoors you can use a house to gently rinse off your cactus.

CONTROL PESTS & INSECTS

Another cactus killer is pests and insects. They’ll cause yellowing sections on your cactus and make it sick. To common insects that are harmful to cacti are the spider mites and mealybugs. You can purchase solutions from your local nursery for spider mites and use rubbing alcohol to kill mealybugs. Spider mites are tiny red spiders that have webs that are like sheets. Mealybugs appear in powdery white clusters.

USE LOW NITROGEN FERTILIZER

Use some fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season which usually starts around March. Fertilizer is mixed and packaged in different ratios. The ratio that is best for cacti is one where the nitrogen is rated at 10. This means a common solution is a 10 (N) – 30 (P) – 20 (K). Avoid excessive nitrogen as it will cause stunted growth and a texture that’s flabby.

HOW TO TREAT CACTUS ROT

Cactus rot is caused by overwatering. While owners might feel like frequent tending is how you care for plants, the cactus doesn’t need as much attention. Most cactus that turn brown and black to eventually die have been overwatered by accident by their owners.

LET THEM GET DRY

While most plants get sickly if they aren’t watered often the cactus is a plant that needs to dry out as part of it’s plant cycle. The roots of the cactus are accustomed to having very little water in nature and will rot if you water them as much as you do your tomatoes.

WATCH FOR MUSHY SECTIONS & DISCOLORATION

It’s incredibly important to watch for your cactus to get mushy or start turning brown and or black. These are signs that overwatering has occurred. The roots are probably already dead and rotting. Simply do not ever overwater. Pay attention to your cactus soil and only water when it’s completely dried out. It may seem neglectful, but that’s the natural environment the cactus is used to.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’VE FOUND CACTUS ROT

It is time to trim them off with a sharp knife and repot or replant your cactus. Make sure you use a good mixture of garden soil (2 parts), coarse sand (2 parts) and peat soil (1 part). It’s also important to choose a pot that’s a little oversized and has good drainage holes. If you’re growing cactus outside make sure the soil you’re planting in is good draining soil with a portion of sand to help facilitate this affect.

CACTUS CARE & CACTUS REMOVAL IN PHOENIX

If you’ve got cactus on your property that need to be cared for or if you need cactus removal, our team can help! We proudly care for trees and cactus in the Phoenix Valley including Chandler, Mesa, Gilbert, Scottsdale and Paradise Valley. We trim, prune, improve nutrients in soil, and remove cactus that have died. If you’d like to know more about our services, please contact us today, Call 480-962-0701 or Contact Us Today!

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CONTACT US HERE

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How Much Does Palm Tree Trimming Cost?

HOW MUCH DOES PALM TREE TRIMMING COST?

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The average nationwide cost of palm tree trimming is $637.50 per palm tree. However, the size, shape, and health of the palm has an impact on the cost to trim them properly. Trees that are trimmed regularly need less work and cost less, if you have a palm that needs a lot of work it takes longer and does cost more.

SMALL PALM TREE TRIMMING COST

Palm trees which are up to 30 feet usually cost around $75 to $400.

MEDIUM PALM TREE TRIMMING COST

Medium palm tree trimming cost range around $130 to $800 for a palm tree 31ft – 59ft.

LARGE PALM TREE TRIMMING COST

Palms which are 60 feet or taller usually cost around $200 to $1,200.

FOR MORE ACCURATE COSTS PLEASE CONTACT US AND WE WILL COME OUT AND GIVE YOU A QUOTE FOR PALM TREE TRIMMING!

WHEN SHOULD YOU TRIM PALM TREES?

Palm tree leaves are known as fronds. When they begin to die off, they turn color, often going brown but also yellow and orange. But there is no need to alarmed this is a natural and totally normal past of your palm trees life cycle. Understandably, you probably do not want to see trees that may appear dead in your garden or yard and it is here where the pro’s at Phoenix Trim-A-Tree can blossom into full strength for you! Our experts will care for your palm tree and have ample experience in removing the fronds from your palm tree when they start to turn brown, yellow or orange. it is vital for the ongoing favorable health of your palm trees to be trimmed on a regular basis. This give a chance for the tree to grow new fronds. If the tree remains untrimmed, the bad fronds will take the majority of the nutrients from the rest of the tree.

OUR PALM TREE PROCESS INCLUDES

We follow 4 steps in the Palm Tree Trimming Process. These steps make sure the customers are going to be satisfied with our work and ensure the safety of our workers.

1. PALM TREE INSPECTION

We will inspect the tree taking into account any possible dangers we need to be aware of before proceeding. We look at the dimensions of the tree, the amount of work that needs doing and take full consideration of any other environmental issues or customer issues so we can get a plan of action together.

2. YOUR FREE ESTIMATE FOR PALM TREE TRIMMING

We will give you a free estimate up front for the palm tree (or trees) that need to be trimmed. You will be able to approve the estimate before we commence work.

3. TRIMMING THE PALM TREE(S) & REMOVAL OF FRONDS

Once the quote has been approved and you are happy with the job we are about to undertake, we will get to work for you giving our utmost attention to the needs of your tree(s.)

4. THE CLEAN UP – REMOVING WASTE & DEBRIS

We make 100% certain to clean up any leftover debris or waste from your property so your freshly trimmed palm trees can exude their natural beauty.

PALM TREE TRIMMING BY PHOENIX TRIM-A-TREE

If you have palms that are looking shabby and need palm tree trimming to stay looking great give us a call. We will come out and let you know how much it will cost to have your palm trees trimmed. We offer affordable competitive pricing to take care of your palm trees in Arizona. We care for the palm trees for businesses and homes in Phoenix, Mesa, Chandler, Scottsdale, Glendale, Gilbert, Tempe, and every other city in the Phoenix Metropolitan Area. Let us come and make your trees look great as the most visible elements of your landscape!

WE ALSO OFFER PALM TREE REMOVAL FOR TREES THAT ARE DEAD, SICK, OR DON’T BELONG IN YOUR LANDSCAPE ANYMORE.

CALL 480-962-0701
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Phoenix Tree Removal Cost

PHOENIX TREE REMOVAL COST

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The average cost of tree removal in Phoenix is $825. In 2019, the cost to remove a tree ranged from $150 to $1500. Cost factors depend on the location, height, size, condition, and of the tree. The cheapest tree removal cost is about $150 and is common in fallen tree removal jobs. The height of the tree is a factor in the cost of tree removal services. Tree height costs are divided up as trees under 25 feet, trees between 25 to 75 feet, and trees over 75 feet. These ranges are average costs as the proximity to homes, power lines, or other structures can play a role in the final costs.

tree-removal-cost-phoenix-infographic

SMALL TREE REMOVAL COST

The average cost of small tree removal is $327.50. Trees Under 25 ft – A tree that is under 25 ft will cost between $145 and $510 depending on the type and placement.

MEDIUM TREE REMOVAL COST

The average cost of medium tree removal is $630. Trees Between 25 and 75 ft – Trees that are between 25 feet high and 75 feet high cost between $210 and $1,050 depending on the placement and type of tree.

LARGE TREE REMOVAL COSTS

The average cost of large tree removal is $1,250. Trees Over 75 ft – If you have a large tree that is taller than 75 feet the range of cost will be between $1,000 to $1,500 depending on placement, cost, and any special equipment needed.

PINE TREE REMOVAL COST

The average cost to remove a pine tree in Phoenix is is $850. Pine tree removal costs range from $200 to $1,500. For small pine trees removal costs about $200 dollars. For giant pine trees you can pay up to $1,500 dollars or more. As pine trees easily grow upwards of 60 feet and in some cases up to 80 feet, they are among the most dense and largest growing trees out there.

OAK TREE REMOVAL COST

Arborists usually charge more for removing an oak tree as they are one of the strongest trees out there. The average cost to remove an oak tree is $600. Oak tree removal costs range from $200 to $1,000.

FALLEN TREE REMOVAL COST

The average cost of fallen tree removal in Phoenix is $112.50. Fallen tree removal costs range from $75 to $150. At these low costs, most homeowners will jump at the chance to avoid using a dangerous equipment such as chainsaws. Fallen tree removal cost is considerably lower than removing a planted healthy tree no matter whether a storm came through or your tree was just old and dead. This cost varies depending on if you want the tree chipped or simply cut up and hauled away. Because of the need to prevent additional damage to property and homes during removal, the cost for trees that have fallen and caused property damage are by comparison, quite costly. Trees that have fallen on homes also pose an increased risk for tree removal workers and increase the hazards and removal costs.

TREE STUMP GRINDING/REMOVAL COST

Stump grinding is a common add on for tree removal.

TREE STUMP GRINDING COST

The average cost of stump grinding is $537.50. Stump grinding costs range from $75 to $1,000. Stump grinding cost factors also depends on the size, location, and accessibility of the area.

TREE STUMP REMOVAL COST

The average cost of stump removal in Phoenix is $410. Stump removal costs range from $60 to $350. Stump removal cost factors also depends on the location, size, and accessibility of the area.

TREE LIMB OR BRANCH REMOVAL COST

The average cost to remove a large tree limb or branch is $250. Branch removal costs range from $200 to $300.

ADDITIONAL TREE SERVICES COST

  • Tree Limb Removal Cost: $50-$75
  • Limb Chipping Cost: $75
  • Tree Trunk Removal Cost: $75
  • Log Splitting Cost: $75

FREE TREE REMOVAL QUOTES IN PHOENIX

If you own a property in the Phoenix Valley our team of trained, licensed, and insured tree cutting professionals will cut down and remove your tree safely and affordable. Every one of our skilled technicians understands our safe tree removal and cutting protocols and work together to get the job done quickly and safely. Keeping your property in the best condition possible while removing the tree is also our top priority. We remove the tree, clean up the mess, and leave your property in great condition.

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